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Wolf Hunting

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3 years 4 months ago #131 by aellingson
aellingson replied the topic: Wolf Hunting
Hello- I'm a new trapper. Hope you had a chance to make it to this weekend's great WTA convention in Marshfield.
Does anyone know why WI won't allow night wolf hunting?
Any particular call you'd recommend for hunting them? I have a Johnny Stewart Preymaster digital caller I use for 'yotes, as well as a couple mouth calls, but I'm interested in knowing what's a hot call for wolf hunting. I have pretty much all the Preymaster calling cards. Maybe there's a specific mouth call out there I should be aware of.
My main focus will be via trapping though:
I'm trying to decide between criss-cross rebar stakes or the 'wolf fang' trap securement method. Each has pros and cons, as well as various sizes and preparation requirements. Either should hold an animal fine; I'm partly trying to figure out the best 'swivel'/anchor method for ATTACHING the trap to a scent free ground stake(s). If a wolf moves around in my trap I want to see the least chance of it escaping obviously. :)
I still have to order my traps and am trying to figure out whether to use an 'old fashioned' method to prep them or a 'quick dip' method. Also, I see wax now comes in black or white color. A lot of decisions to make. 10/15 will be here b4 you know it.
How many inches back from the edge of a dirt hole or scent post the center of the wolf trap should be is also up for debate. I've heard anywhere from 10 to 14 inches. Some say to offset it a bit to the left or right too.
As far as trap tension, I've heard anywhere from 2 to 3 pounds. Hard to know for sure I guess.
A person could talk all day about things like this, including what type of call lures, gland & urine scents, as well as the type of bait to stick in the hole; and how/when/as well as how much and how often to put out (and mix together) each of these attractant options. Interesting topics.
It'd be nice to get 1 w/ a foothold trap b/c I don't know about you but I haven't done a lot of research on late season cable restraints.

If you have any input, let me know.
Good luck to everyone.

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3 years 4 months ago - 3 years 4 months ago #132 by DuaneFronek
DuaneFronek replied the topic: Wolf Hunting
For calling, what you use for coyotes works for wolves, even coyote howls because its a territorial thing. I mainly use open reed calls like the Thompson Red Desert howler mouth piece. Its loud and makes great distress cries and coyote vocals as well. I feel that you get more range and better penetraition in the timber with an open reed vs an e-caller. But thats just me.

As for trapping the same goes just like the coyotes, what works for coyotes works for wolves. As far as how far from the hole or attractor to set I'd go roughly 12" or so. The WI wolf although big aren't as big as the ones out west or Canada. Average from what I've seen is around 70# when talking to taxidermists and guys that have caught them. I've caught quite a few in coyote sets but couldnt weigh them cause they have to be released if you dont have a tag. As for traps, I'd go with something like the 3# Bridger 4 coiled with modifications, you can buy them already modified, another good trap would be the MB650. What ever you do, dont skimp on good equipment, they are a tough animal to hold and will test the trap. As for dyeing or dipping, I personally dip but its getting late to try and dip and have them completely dry. I would just take and pressure wash the new traps or wash in dawn dishsoap to get the factory oil off then just wax with the black or white trap wax, diesnt matter which cause they'll be buried in dirt anyway. For pan tension, I go with 4lbs on coyotes and it works ok on wolf too, nice full pad catches. If you go too light of tension you risk toes catches and a chance at a loss. For stakes I'd go with the wolf fangs, I've been using them since they came on the market and they are great and a lot lighter to haul around than rebar and more dependable IMO. As for lures, call lures like Blackies Blend Magnum or OGormans LDC works great, a good coyote gland or even fox work good as does coyote or fox urine, they're canines and will check out who's in the area becauise thats what canines do. The biggest thing is practice bedding your traps rock solid so they do not tip or move after they are buried, the number one reason traps get dug up is poor bedding, not scent. I've used traps that have caught skunks and still stunk and caught canines in them. Any more questions I'll be happy to answer. Good luck!
Heres a video that I made on how to make a set that works great for all canines.
Last Edit: 3 years 4 months ago by DuaneFronek.
The following user(s) said Thank You: WWH Admin

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3 years 4 months ago #133 by aellingson
aellingson replied the topic: Wolf Hunting
Thanks for the info Duane! I'm planning on buying MB-650s (outside laminated offset jaw). Maybe I'll get a 12 pack from the manufacturer. Hard to know how many traps to set. I've been hearing about references to "modified traps," but am not quite sure what that means.? Should I buy them modified...I'm not sure if the MB-650 manufacturer even offers that option.
I'm going to 1 of the upcoming State advanced wolf trapper training classes, but I feel like I shouldn't put off procuring and prepping my traps. I have a powerwasher so thoroughly cleaning shouldn't be a problem. I like the idea of using dawn as a degreaser. I was thinking it is getting too late to dip. I'll probably have to figure out how to do the other process. If I go that route, they'd probably be ready to go right away after I complete the process, hopefully. I should probably still rustify and dye them even if I stay away from the dipping option. The dying process is more cumbersome and requires special equipment from what I've heard. I'm still trying to figure it out, actually. I'm willing to buy and do whatever it takes to 'do it right;' although time limitations is part of the challenge.
I had heard 'wolf fangs' are better. I suppose you go w/ the longer wolf fang. Do they require any preparation or can a person just wax the top 6" and be ready to go? My neighbor is offering me the chance to borrow his 20" rebar stakes. I'll have to make that decision. I'm willing to spend xtra money on the best gear tho. Either way I need to figure out how best to secure (i.e. fasten) the trap to the ground anchoring device. Attached is 1 modified option someone showed me at Friday's convention, using a bent nail. I suspect getting the right swivel/attachment setup is critical to hold the wolf, allow it to swivel, and keep it from getting away.
I was surprised on Friday when a guy told me, in his opinion, fox scent works better than 'yote scent, for wolf trapping. I hadn't considered the option.
12" distance between hole and center of pan sounds about right. Do you use a ruler? 1 guy on Friday was saying he even uses some limited amount and size of stones while trapping. I assumed his logic was that the wolf would avoid stepping on the rock and be more likely to hit the pan.
Interesting advice about the importance of bedding the trap properly. I can imagine some overlook that. I suspect pushing the dirt hard w/ my hand should harden the ground to make a firm bed.
I'll watch your video later tonight. I'm on break from work right now. Thanks again.
Ps. Yes, I agree w/ you on the calling. I had better luck w/ 'yotes when I switched to a couple different mouth calls than w/ my digital caller. The HS Estrus Whimper mouth caller is awesome for 'yotes (it makes 3 key sounds). Also, I do remember at this spring's state trapper course they told me to avoid a hair trigger. Your heavier tension suggestion is probably good. I'd hate to lose 1 or catch 1 by the toes. Maybe the stock tension on the MB-650 will be fine. I'll probably use the "underall" foam method under the trap pan, and then wax dirt on/around the trap bed (maybe 3/8 to 1/2" loose layer of wax dirt on top of the trap, I don't know). 1 guy on Friday suggested scattering what he called "duff" on top of the dirt to avoid the obvious sight of worked up dirt. By duff I think he meant some minor sparce camo cover such as small organic matter like a bit of grass or leaves.
Sorry for all the questions. This is interesting stuff and a person wants to do it right :) I guess that's what forums are for.
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3 years 4 months ago #134 by DuaneFronek
DuaneFronek replied the topic: Wolf Hunting
I looked at your double stake setup for rebar pic. That j hook is not a good one for wolf or coyote, its too weak, if you go that route use the heavy duty crunch proof j hooks, most trap supply carries them. The nice thing about cable is hooking it to the trap chain with a 3/16" quick link, looks like a chain link with a threaded nut to open and close the the link, and they last a long time.I think you'll do fine with pressuring washing and then waxing. When waxing use only wax melted,wax melted on top of water doesnt work well because the water prevent the wax from adhereing to the trap and flakes off. Just use pure melted trap wax, usually 15-20lbs melted in a cheap stock pot works well. As for modifications, the MB650 is pretty much a modified trap with the jaw laminations, its four coiled and the coils cant be pulled off by a coyote or wolf cause they're on piece and bolted on the trap. Other traps have a spring pin that holds the spring as you know, but to make them wolf proof they need baseplates, jaw laminations and a 3/16" rod spot welded across the spring pin ends ends so a wolf cant pull the pin out out and the springs fall off, had it happen a time or two, coyotes will do it too. Attached are pics of a fully modified trap and how mine are setup with the welded spring ping pin, end chain quick link etc. Its a 3# Bridger. As for the under alls, Id use wax paper, I've tried just about every thing out there over the years and always go back to the wax paper. The underalls if bought thru a trap supply have in the past smelled like lures etc. One season I set 64 traps opening day using underalls, the next check day 26 traps had the underalls dug out from under the pan. They hold scent too much imo. But it was a lesson learned.


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3 years 4 months ago - 3 years 4 months ago #135 by DuaneFronek
DuaneFronek replied the topic: Wolf Hunting
Mike,yotefever, I'm sure you'll get one, theres enough around. Should take the online trapper ed class, then I can give you a hand setting up over by you.
Last Edit: 3 years 4 months ago by DuaneFronek.

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3 years 4 months ago #136 by aellingson
aellingson replied the topic: Wolf Hunting
Thanks for the info Duane! I found the 3/16" quick link on this website:
www.minntrapprod.com/QUICK-LINKS-3_16/productinfo/QUICKLINKS/
That makes sense. I assume you're suggesting I simply put the quick link between the end of the trap chain and the loop on the top of the 18" wolf fang. That should allow the wolf to MOVE around without the likelihood of it getting out of the trap. The wolf fangs look like they're easy to use.
Do I want to put my ID tag and quick link on prior to waxing---- then just proceed to clean and wax the MB-650's chain, trap, id tag, and quick link? I'll plan to put a couple tooth picks or nails between the jaw edges when I prep the traps.
I didn't realize just cleaning and waxing would be an option. Being a rookie I thought I had to dip or dye. I also thought I had to use some water when I melt the wax, so thanks for clarifying. After dipping everything in wax, I should be able to just carefully pull it out of the wax, simply hang them outside, and they'd essentially be ready to go? That sounds easily doable. A person should probably wash and wax the top 8" of the wolf fang too I'd assume.
Then next time I use the traps, which may not be for a few years, would I just powerwash and wax them using the same procedure, or would I eventually want to wash all the wax off and dye or dip them in the future. I guess I didn't realize that an undyed or undipped trap would work. The main key must be the wax. Under your suggested scenario of simply washing and waxing, would I still want to rustify the traps between the time I powerwash and wax them? What is the main benefit of dip or dye by the way? Have a great weekend. Good luck to all bowhunters. :)

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